Twice a year the fashion elite become a bizarre travelling circus as, for a month at a time, editors, photographers, stylists and models jet around the world to each of the four fashion capitals and decide exactly what we’ll all be wearing the next season. Last week it was London’s turn and it wasnt just for the girls. Each season the menswear day gets bigger and better. It is a shame, in fact, that it clashes with the opening of Milan as many editors head off early to avoid missing any shows. On the plus side it means the whole day is much quieter and there isn’t nearly as much of a scrum for seats. Even saying that, I wasn’t lucky enough to get to every show I wanted to go to; but then, that would have required the ability to travel through time, with several of the top shows clashing. Anyway, here are my top shows from London Fashion Week 2011.
The beauty and madness of London Fashion Week is that you can never see it all. There is just simply too much.
JW Anderson
JW Anderson Autumn Winter 2011 photo credit: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
A great mix of tailored pieces, new and exciting knitwear, and non-commercial pieces graced the catwalk to thumping Icelandic beats. This nordic influence could be seen throughout the collection and especially in the knitwear, which, in the Twitter storm that follows each show, was lapped up by one and all. Another strong look that came from JW Anderson was layered cardigans. Sure, the full length kilts may not be exactly right for strolling down your average high street, but we’re in fashion land – where anything goes.
Sibling
A truly inspirational brand that’s going from strength to strength, and well worth a look. This season we were taken on a pub crawl around East London. Dragon and lion motifs were applied liberally to the jumpers and union suits, and whilst knitted shorts may not be everyone’s cup of tea I challenge anyone not to adore their artist collaboration Rock Pandas!
E. Tautz
E Tautz Autumn Winter 2011 photo credit: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
Patrick Grant, the creative director, has rescued this fine tailors that once held Winston Churchill as one of its valued customers. Grant is championing a way back to a more refined time, when wearing your Sunday best really meant that. Inspired by a trip to Scotland, heather, gold and a rich burgundy were key features of the collection. The tailoring, as always, was sharp and classic but with a distinctly modern feel. Key pieces for me were the outerwear – in particular a grey/lilac double-breasted peacoat with over-sized collar and the magnificent double breasted suits.
Paul Costelloe
Paul Costelloe Autumn Winter 2011 photo credit: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
Paul Costelloe opened London Fashion Week. Over the last few seasons the menswear element of his collection has grown, and this year was by far his strongest yet. The deep velvet jacket, short cropped tweed suit and bold check overcoats struck a chord with those watching the show. The overcoats, whilst initially daunting, would be quite easy to wear, and paired with dark denim would set you apart from anyone else. Immediately after Costelloe’s show John Lewis on Oxford Street held a pop-up shop for the Spring Summer 2011 collection. Let’s hope the brand continues to grow into next season and more of these statement pieces will be available.
Off-schedule shows are often the most dynamic and daring for the simple reason that LFW desperately needs to get people in. The smaller shows are full of fresh young talent yet to be knocked back by the need to fulfil the needs of buyers. Two of the strongest this menswear day were Horace and Asger Juel Larsen.
Horace
It’s hard to describe the Horace man. He’s not afraid to wear massive faux fur trousers, banana print boots, or an oversized slogan t-shirt. That said, he also clearly appreciates the need for a well worn, well tailored biker jacket. At the cutting edge of fashion, Horace won’t be everyone’s cup of tea – and that is its strength. Designer Adam Entwisle channelled a definite Mad Max vibe for this collection and it worked well.
Click through for the whole collection at GQ.com
Asger Juel Larsen
One of Vauxhall Fashion Scouts’ Ones to Watch, Asger is going from strength to strength. Asger presented a compact collection that drew wide yet dark inspirations. The zip-front briefs or lace up trousers may not be to everyones taste, but the chunky knit jumpers with an oversized neck, and the asymmetric peacoat with a funnel neck were at once accesible and forward-looking. It’s a difficult feat to achieve in menswear, where even the smallest detail can make a something wearable look like little more than a costume.
Click through for the whole collection at GQ.com
I’ve undoubtedly left some greats out – Christopher Shannon, Topman and Mr Start to name just a few. And let’s not forget New Power Studio’s velour covered boy acting as a human incense holder. He may not have had the impact of last seasons boy-in-a-backpack, but he still turned a few heads.
Photo credit: All above photographs are credited to www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
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